Trentino Dolomites itinerary: an off-the-beaten path adventure

Last updated on July 19, 2024

When you picture the Dolomites, the first images that will likely come to mind are the three peaks of Lavaredo, Val di Funes and Lago de Braies. Problem is, these are also the most busy, and come peak season, you’ll be fighting the crowds for a glimpse of those epic views. Some even have limited visitor numbers. But, just south of these big hitters, is a quieter section of the Dolomites where the crowds are slimmer and the landscape still glorious. It makes for a more peaceful Dolomites trip. 

We spent a week exploring Trentino’s Dolomites in spring and were wowed by everything, from the wine to the turquoise lakes and farm-to-table cuisine. And of course, the mountainous backdrop that makes everything feel epic. 

Here’s our full 7-day Dolomites itinerary, including where we stayed, what we did, where we ate and all our top Dolomites tips. We also have a guide to the best things to do in Trentino with kids.

We worked with Visit Trentino to put together this Dolomites itinerary, and we were hosted by the tourism board and hotels at both Maso Corradini and Hotel Miravalle. It’s one of the best press trips we’ve ever done and working with Visit Trentino meant we learned about some amazing hidden gems.

Who is this itinerary for? Families? Couples?

We travelled as a family of four with a 4 and 6-year-old, and this is a particularly family-friendly itinerary. However, if you’re travelling without kids, you could easily adapt the activities to suit the shape of your group. Both hotels were family-friendly, but not exclusively so, and we saw couples at both. And nearly all the activities we did would suit people of all ages.

Trentino, like with most of Italy, is exceptionally family-friendly. But it’s also an adventure lover’s dream with all sorts of advanced hiking and cycling routes. So if you’re seeking adrenaline, you might add in a bit more of that at each destination. I’ve included some options for each place.

Where is Trentino and why visit?

Trentino is in northeast Italy, between Lake Garda and the Dolomites in the heart of the Italian Alps. It’s a place to experience mountain life through its food, wine and culture. There are 15 different territories, and we visited four: Val di Fiemme, Dolomiti Paganella, Val di Cembra and Trento.

Val di Fiemme is famous for its mountain holidays and excellent hospitality. The Paneveggio National Park is a highlight. Valle di Cembra is known for its wines, and Altopiano della Paganella is best known for the gorgeous Lake Molveno. All are great for families, but Paganella is perhaps the best developed for family holidays with many family hotels and activities to choose from. It also has a lot of adventure sports.

Trentino is one of the most charming and stunningly beautiful places I’ve been to in Italy. The mountains are epic, the water pristine and the hospitality goes above and beyond. We loved the Alpine vibes that give the culture a uniqueness in Italy. It amazes me that it’s relatively unknown in comparison to other regions of Italy. I imagine that may soon change!

When to visit Trentino and the Dolomites

Trentino has warm summers and cold winters. It’s mountainous so the weather is variable from hour to hour – deep mists in the morning can easily give way to pure sunshine a few hours later.

Summer and winter are the high seasons – for the weather in summer and the skiing in winter. As such the prices are at their highest then. The shoulder seasons of spring and autumn bring less crowds.

We went at the end of May in springtime and, while not deserted by any means, it was quiet. In terms of the weather, we had everything from hot sunny days to storms and rain for hours. It’s unpredictable, but by and large, the weather was good for us.

How to get around Trentino

How to get to Trentino

The best airport for Trentino is Verona. From there, it’s about a one-hour drive to Trento and 1.5 hours to Val de Fiemme or San Lorenzo Dorsino (where we started and ended our trip respectively).

To get around Trentino, you ideally need a car (we recommend booking via Discover Cars where we’ve always found the best deals).

Our Trentino Dolomites highlights

• Lake Molveno with its incredible turquoise waters and plethora of family-friendly activities
• Al fresco dining with serene views at Maso Corradini agriturismo
• Riding bikes along the Dolomites cycle path
• The cute kids’ farm trail and epic vineyard views at Fattoria Antico Melo
• Trying and learning about the wine of the Cembra Valley
• Soaking in the pool with mountain views at Hotel Miravalle

Trentino Dolomites itinerary map

Trentino Dolomites itinerary at a glance

Day 1: Arrive via Verona to Val di Fiemme

Day 2: Bike ride along the Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa bike path 

Day 3: Explore Predazzo village and go for a walk in the violin forest

Day 4: Take a day trip to Val di Cembra, visiting a farm and a local winery

Day 5: Visit Lake Nembia en route to your next hotel in San Lorenzo Dorsino 

Day 6: Spend a day enjoying Lake Molveno

Day 7: Take the gondola to Pradel Plateu and spend time in the mountains

Day 8: Travel back to Verona airport via Trento

Our detailed Trentino Dolomites itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Val di Fiemme

Depending on what time you arrive, today may just be about travelling to Val di Fiemme and checking into the wonderful Maso Corradini. Or you might have time to explore the local village of Cavalese, or even Trento.

We arrived in the morning, so stopped in Trento for a pizza lunch, and then popped into Cavalese for a gelato, giving the kids a proper culinary intro to Italy! We then spent most of the afternoon simply relaxing at Maso Corradini. There are also waterfalls you can see in Cavalese.

Where to stay in Val di Fiemme

We stayed at Maso Corradini, a family-run agriturismo in Castello di Fiemme. It’s really family friendly with kids’ play areas both inside and out, including a trampoline and climbing frame in the garden. And the views are picture-perfect, looking out onto the mountains and the village church.

My best memories from here are al fresco dinners on the patio, soaking in the views while the kids spent hours playing on the trampoline.

We stayed in a two-bedroom suite with a balcony and a cosy, mountain ski-chalet aesthetic. The whole place has a hygee vibe – a place where you can imagine getting cosy during the winter months.

It’s run by the Corradini family who are wonderfully friendly and make everyone feel at home. Cheese, eggs and jams are fresh from the family farm, and you can even visit the cows in the barn next door. Meal times are a highlight with multi-course dinners served nightly, as well as a breakfast buffet in the morning. We were all huge fans of the cakes!

For me, Maso Corradini is the epitome of a perfect agriturismo and why we love this type of stay – a chance to experience a different culture firsthand in a cosy, peaceful environment. It’s the opposite of a soulless, big hotel.

You can see more farm stays in Trentino here.

Day 2: Dolomites Cycle Path

Today is all about exploring the Trentino Dolomites cycle path that connects the valleys of Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa. Pick up your bikes from Local Motion in Predazzo, grab a map and choose which direction to head in. They have both electric and mountain bikes, as well as kids bikes or trailers. Even though Otis can ride a bike, we opted for a trailer as it meant we could travel further without worrying about him getting tired. If you’re up for even more adventure, go for the mountain bike and ride as far as you can.

We cycled west from Predazzo to Cavalese, which took around 45 minutes each way. We stopped for lunch and at playgrounds along the way, making a full day of it.

It’s one of the most gorgeous cycle paths I’ve ever been on, passing alongside meadows, streams, villages, farms, and those epic mountain views. It’s also nice and easy with a paved cycle path and gentle hills.

There are picnic areas along the route, so you could bring a packed lunch, but there are also a few restaurants too. We had lunch at Ristorante La Moa in Lago di Tesero, a hidden gem that looks un-presuming from the roadside, but has a lush lakeside setting once you go inside. The food was great with salads, pastas and risottos. Plus there’s also a little playground for the kids.

We stopped at two other playgrounds on our bike ride, – one in Cavalese and one in Ziano di Fiemme. Both had loads of great play equipment and stunning views. But our favourite was Parco Avventura in Ziano di Fiemme – it may even be my favourite playground I’ve ever been to and the kids are still talking about it! There’s a zip line, climbing frames, and even an elevated adventure course, which is open in the summer. For me, it was the views and setting that iced the cake.

The cycle path has loads of useful services, including bike rentals, service points, e-bike charging station and fresh mountain water fountains, which makes it all nice and easy. Plus in the summer, there’s a shuttle bus service at fixed times along the route (the Fiemme and Fassa Bike Express), so you can skip some of the uphill parts or jump ahead if you like. The only unpaved part of the path is between Fontanazzo – Canazei in Val di Fassa.

After your bike ride, head back to Maso Carradini to relax and enjoy dinner, hopefully al fresco if you’re lucky!

Day 3: Predazzo and Paneveggio

In the morning, after your buffet breakfast at Maso Corradini, take some time to explore the mountain village of Predazzo. It’s a picture-perfect village with pastel-coloured buildings against a mountainous forest-filled backdrop. It’s a lovely place to simply wander, taking photos and stopping for coffee along the way.

We had lunch just outside the village at Shop & Bistrot – Caseificio Sociale Predazzo e Moena. It doubles as a shop and restaurant, selling and serving local delicacies. The cheese counter is impressive, and the views are epic.

In the afternoon, head to the Paneveggio – Pale di San Martino Nature Park. Here you can explore the forest, trails, history, flora and fauna of Trentino’s eastern dolomites. Its hallmark is the ‘violin forest’ where resonant fir trees grow and are used to make violins. You can see the area where the trees have been cut and sorted into different levels of quality. If you tap the best ones – the true resonant fir – you can hear its quality in the sound of its reverberations.

A highlight for us was the cable bridge where you can walk across a waterfall – somewhat scary but invigorating (and also totally safe). And the kids loved all the trail markers where you could guess the footprints of the local wildlife.

There’s also a fenced off deer park where you can see the symbol of the national park.

We had a guide, which was a wonderful way to learn more about the park’s ecosystem.

Day 4: Val di Cembra

Head west from Val di Fiemme and you get to Val di Cembra, a valley known for its wine. Today, spend time getting to know the region, visiting a farm and a local winery.

Start by visiting Fattoria L’Antico Melo at Maso Pomarolli where the lovely Giada can guide you around the farm. Giada is an early years teacher and psycho-motorist, so is great with kids. She’s put together a lovely activity where children can explore the farm and collect stamps for every animal they see – from bees to sheep to a tiny dwarf pig. Our kids loved it and we all fell in love with the guinea pigs!

After the visit, you get to sample some of the farm’s wares with a snack of bread, jams, honey and biscuits. You can also stay at Maso Pomarolli.

Next head upward to Lago Santo, a small but picturesque lake at 1200m altitude. Legend has it that the lake was wished into existence when neighbouring towns were fighting over the forest. The wished-for-lake started to flood and the villagers saw it as God’s punishment. They begged forgiveness, brokered peace and the lake miraculously stopped flooding, never to be fought over again.

Wander around the lake, soak in the views. And afterwards, have lunch at the neighbouring Rifugio Lago Santo. It doesn’t have views of the lake, but does serve home-cooked mountain food that you can enjoy either inside or on the pretty patio.

You’re in wine country, so it’s only right you do a tasting. Cembra Cantina di Montagna is the place to go in the village of Cembra to try Val di Cembra wines. You can do a tour of the winery and learn about the unique terroir and practices of the valley. It’s one of the highest altitude wineries in Italy and is made up of around 300 winegrowers.

I’m no wine expert, but I liked the fresh minerality that defined the wines I tried. We brought three bottles home! It was also fascinating to go behind the scenes of the winery and see how it all works.

If you have time, also take a look around the small village of Cembra. We enjoyed the viewpoint and playground overlooking the valley.

Finally, head back to Maso Corradini for your final night at the agriturismo.

Day 5: San Lorenzo Dorsino

Today, it’s time to change hotels and head to your next destination, Dolomiti Paganella. It’s around 1.5 hours from Val di Fiemme and is a beautiful drive along mountain roads.

Athabaska Farm is your first stop. This charming farm is an agriturismo that also runs activities for day visitors. In the winter, it’s all about dog sledding, but come spring and summertime, you can do a guided tour of the farm animals, including camels! And then take the llamas for a walk around the surrounding area. You can lead your own llama, which looks like a fun experience for both adults and kids. Unfortunately, we only got a few steps as our kids were feeling hot, bothered and a little scared of the llamas!

We did, however, enjoy a wonderful homemade lunch on the terrace with produce from the farm and local wine. It’s a lush place to dine.

After the farm, head to Lake Nembia in the Adamello Brenta Nature Park. The green-hued lake is backed by towering granite boulders and the mountains in the distance. Sitting on the jetty, admiring the view was one of the favourite, peaceful moments in Trentino. It’s just so gorgeous!

There’s a small playground next to the lake with a fun submarine climbing frame.

Finally, drive to San Lorenzo Dorsino and check-in to your new hotel – Miravalle.

Where to stay in San Lorenzo Dorsino

We stayed at Hotel Miravalle, a family-run hotel that looks out over the village of San Lorenzo Dorsino at the foot of the Brenta Dolomites. It’s a stunning setting with epic views from every side of the hotel. We especially loved lounging in the small natural pool (nicely heated!) while looking out to the mountains.

It’s a family-orientated hotel with an indoor playroom, outdoor playground and kids’ club during the high season. Plus there are farm animals you can visit too.

Unlike some of the other Dolomites family hotels you may have seen on Instagram, this one comes with a reasonable price. It’s not as luxurious as the famed alternatives, but it’s a great option if you’re not uber-rich (the other hotels I’m talking about often exceed 1000 euro per night!). And it still has the same sweeping Dolomites views and cool, Scandi-chic rooms.

The rooms have been renovated more recently than the rest of the hotel so the common areas feel a little dated in comparison. But this sort of adds to the charm and cosy, family-run vibe.

A breakfast buffet is served daily, as well as a four-course evening meal (Italians love to dine!), and they have good options for kids. Arlo says the breakfast buffet here and at Maso Corradini were his favourite things from Italy!

Day 6: Lake Molveno

Today you’re in for a treat with a day at Lake Molveno, one of the most beautiful spots on this trip, and perhaps the whole of Italy. In fact, it won the prestigious title of ‘best lake in Italy’ every year from 2014-2023!

Lake Molveno is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the turquoise of the lake is stunning, especially where the mountain river meets the pool and creates an almost luminous aqua blue.

There’s plenty to do for everyone, from cycling or hiking around the lake, to hiring a boat and exploring it from the water. Our kids loved the playgrounds on the shore and we also had a great game of mini golf.

The town of Molveno is tourist-orientated with gift shops, restaurants and gelaterias. We had great pizza at Pizzico.

You could easily spend a full day in and around Lake Molveno, provided the weather is good.

In the afternoon, either continue your lake adventures, or head back to San Lorenzo Dorsino where you can do a fun treasure hunt around the village (pick up the map from Hotel Miravalle).

Day 7: Pradel Plateu

For your final full day, it’s time to head right up into the mountains and the Pradel Plateau. A cable car ride takes you there from the town of Molveno. It’s a pretty steep ascent, so if you’re nervous of heights, it might be challenging! The views of the lake are spectacular.

Once up on the plateau, there are lots of activities to be explored, from hiking trails to playgrounds. There are different offerings, depending on the season. When we went in May, the summer activities were just opening, including the cool Forest Park, which has a series of elevated walkways and obstacles among the trees. Sadly, wet weather meant it was closed the day we visited, but we had a peek and it looked like great fun (Otis was devasted not to do it, so now we have a big reason to return!).

Another great thing for kids is the Squirrel Trail (Il Mondo di Sciury) that runs through the forest and has various activities along the way, from play equipment to nature lessons. To do the whole trail would take around two hours, but you can also dip in and out.

Our sons’ favourite thing was a wooden ball run – a little like a giant marble run – where you could buy a wooden ball and run it down a handmade network of tubes and obstacles. A ball costs 4 euro and you can keep it to take home (note that it looks as though it only costs 2 euro, but you need to put a coin in both sides – it took a lot of us to work that out!).

From the plateau, you can also head higher up the mountain on a ski lift. In the spring, we saw lots of people going up with their mountain bikes, so this would be a fun activity for the adventurers among you.

There are a couple of restaurants on the plateau so you could easily spend a full day there.

Day 8: Verona via Trento

On your final day, depending on your onward plans, you could stop to explore Trento. We went to the Muse natural history and science museum, which has six floors of exhibits exploring nature, mountains, technology and sustainability. It’s more suited to slightly older kids, but our boys did enjoy the interactive elements, especially in the science area. It’s in a beautiful Renzo Piano building and in one of the newest neighbourhoods of Trento, which has some good restaurants to try. We enjoyed pizza at Pizzikotto Trento.

Here are some other places that were recommended to us in Trento…

Activities in Trento

• Via Belenzani
• Piazza Duomo
• Piazza Fiera
• Via Suffragio
• Castello del Buon Consiglio 

Café and bars in Trento

• La Vie en Rose – for coffee
• Scuderie del Castello – for wine and aperitivo
• Osteria Te Ke Voi
• Panificio Moderno – for coffee and freshly baked bread
• Sosi – a local bakery where you find typical bread and cakes

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