Last updated on September 25, 2024
France’s Atlantic coast is a land of surf, wineries, remote islands, picturesque vacation towns and elegant cities, which all make for an incredible road trip. We spent a few weeks, driving the coast and weaving inland for vineyards and time in the cities. It’s yet another part of France that wowed us
From the Basque culture of Biarritz to the elegant streets of Bordeaux, the wild beaches of Médoc Atlantique, and the idyllic islands near La Rochelle, this route showcases the best of southwestern France. And if you want to make it even longer, you could head down to San Sebastian too, which is what we did and highly recommend (it’s one of my favourite cities in the world).
This post is an outline of my suggested two-week west coast France itinerary. It blends a couple of trips we’ve done, creating an adventure takes in the best of the Atlantic coast. I also suggest ending with a surf retreat at Ujusansa, which is a great way to finish a road trip (we loved it so much, we’re going there again next year!).
How to use this road trip itinerary
We’ve structured this itinerary as a linear journey starting from Biarritz and moving up the coast toward Île de Ré and La Rochelle. However, there are many ways you could adapt it, choosing to focus on just one section of the route, staying more/less nights in each destination, or picking one or two places as a base and doing day trips from there.
Another option would be to extend your route further up the coast to Nantes and maybe even Brittany. Or head further south into Spain and the Basque coast.
We did the road trip as a family of four with two kids aged 4 and 6. But whether you’re a couple, a family or a solo traveller, the itinerary can be adapted to suit anyone. Take it at your own pace, linger at your favourite spots, skip others and make spontaneous detours along the way.
You could also combine it with this south of France road trip or another European country.
France west coast road trip highlights
- Climbing the Dune du Pilat, the highest sand dune in Europe
- Cycling through the vineyards and coastal paths of Médoc Atlantique
- Surfing the famous Atlantic coast waves
- Biarritz’s mix of chic sophistication and laid-back surf culture
- The maritime charm of La Rochelle’s old port and fortifications
- Bordeaux’s elegant architecture and world-renowned wine culture
- Hiring bikes and exploring the charming villages of Île de Ré
West coast France road trip itinerary at a glance
- Biarritz – 2 nights
- Moliets or Hossegor – 2 nights
- Arcachon – 2 nights
- Bordeaux – 3 nights
- Médoc Atlantique – 2 nights
- La Rochelle – 2 nights
- Île de Ré – 2 nights
France Atlantic coast road trip FAQs
When to go to the west coast of France
The best time to visit France’s Atlantic coast is from May to September when the weather is warm and you can best enjoy the beaches and outdoor adventures. Being beside the Atlantic, the weather can be pretty changeable, and we did see rain and cloudy skies, even in July/August (but this was normally just for part of the day before giving way to blue skies). I would certainly pack layers, and don’t expect the kind of high temperatures and reliable sun you find in southern France in the summer.
July and August are peak season, so consider May, June, or September for fewer crowds but warm weather. And bear in mind, most French people take all of August off, so that’s the busiest time of all.
The cities make good winter destinations, but you’d miss out on a lot of the area’s charms if you did a road trip then.
And if you want to surf, the autumn is a good time for reliable waves and fewer crowds.
How to get around France’s west coast
If you’re coming from nearby, you may have brought your own car, but if you need to hire one, we recommend Discover Cars where we always tend to find better deals than booking with the supplier directly.
The driving distances between each destination are manageable, and French roads are generally well-maintained, but be careful near the coast where some tracks/parking spots are made of sand and can be easy to get stuck in! We had so much sand in our car by the end of the trip that we were worried we would lose our deposit, but the rental provider in Bordeaux barely blinked an eye. I imagine our situation is fairly common!
Also be aware of toll roads and factor them into your budget. You can use this toll calculator to know what to expect in advance.
How to get to the west coast of France
If you’re arriving by air, Biarritz, La Rochelle and Bordeaux all have airports, or you could extend your route further up the coast to Nantes. Or down the coast to Spain and Bilbao.
If you’re coming from the UK, the best place to catch the ferry to is Roscoff, which is just over 5 hours from La Rochelle. You could break up the journey by spending a night in Nantes.
Another good option is to get the train to your starting point and hire a car from there. France’s TGV trains are super quick (it’s just two hours to get from Paris to Bordeaux) and you can combine those with a Eurostar to and from the UK. We much prefer travelling by train than flying, finding it to be a far less stressful option, especially with kids.
How many days do you need for a west coast France road trip?
Spending two weeks on a west coast France road trip allows you to fully enjoy each destination without rushing too much. However, you could easily condense it into a shorter stay of 7-10 days by spending just one night in each place or just stopping at some destination en route rather than spending the night.
Our detailed west coast France road trip itinerary
Biarritz
Start your Atlantic Coast road trip in Biarritz, a stylish beach town known for its interesting blend of surf culture and grand Belle Époque architecture. I’ve always seen it as a “posh” destination, mainly based on the friends I knew who went there when we were kids – and to be fair, it does live up to that reputation with prices to match, especially in the high season.
But the surf culture adds a relaxed edge, and it’s far from the glitz and glam of places like St.Tropez. It’s also proudly part of France’s Basque region, which provides a chance to experience the unique Basque culture and its cuisine.
Quieter alternatives to Biarritz are Moliets-et-Maa and Hossegor, which are a bit further up the coast. Both are also hubs for surfing, especially Hossegor. Hossegor is about 40 mins about the coast from Biarritz, and Moliets-et-Maa is about an hour, so you could feasibly do them as day trips or add one in as an extra overnight stop.
Things to do in Biarritz
Biarritz is primarily about enjoying the beach and beautiful town, but here are some extra Biarritz attractions…
- Head to the Grande Plage for surfing lessons and sunbathing. Or visit the quieter Côte des Basques beach, popular with surfers and overlooked by the iconic Villa Belza. This area has some of the best beaches in west France.
- Wander the old town, stopping at boutiques that catch your eye.
- Explore the city’s surf culture at la Maison de Surf, which hosts regular exhibitions. And see art by beachcomber Becca Kudela, and sand artist Sam Dougados.
- Enjoy stunning views of the Bay of Biscay from Rocher de la Vierge, a rocky outcrop. Phare de Biarritz is another spot with gorgeous views.
- Explore the Aquarium de Biarritz and learn about the marine life of the Atlantic.
Where to eat and drink in Biarritz
Biarritz is well regarded for its food and has a great selection of both classic and modern restaurants. We’ve found it to be one of the best places for vegetarians out of everywhere we’ we’ve been in France outside of the major cities.
- Dine on Basque delicacies at Les Halles Market, a perfect spot to enjoy fresh seafood and local cheeses.
- Grab a cookie at Pepite – I’m obsessed by these and love that they come in varying sizes (a perfect excuse to try more than one flavour of the tiny ones!)
- California Kitchen Biarritz – paradise for veggies if you’re tired of the lack of options in France!
Where to stay in Biarritz
Hotel Indarra
We stayed at the gorgeous Hotel Indarra, a stylish surf-yoga hotel in a traditional Basque building between the mountains and the sea. It’s in a village setting, around 15 minutes outside Biarritz centre. This helps keep the price a little lower than some of the city centre hotels – but without sacrificing on style.
The whole place is exquisitely designed with a surf-chic California aesthetic, complemented with traditional Basque architecture. Kids are welcome and there’s a lovely outdoor heated pool and yoga studio alongside it. It has the feel of a family-friendly wellness retreat. We adored it.
More places to stay in Biarritz
Other options to consider in Biarritz centre are:
- Hotel le Garage – a fun, luxury retro hotel in a former car garage
- Le Regina Biarritz Hotel & Spa – luxury art deco hotel
- Biarritz Surf Lodge – cute guesthouse and apartments close to Côte des Basques beach
Arcachon
Arcachon was a complete surprise to me, but it’s one of the most popular holiday destinations for French people, especially the Bordelais, who’ve been making holiday homes there for centuries. It’s a stylish seaside town with an air of wealth – when cycling through the suburbs, I felt like I was in France’s answer to Beverly Hills!
The most famous sight in Arcachon is Dune du Pilat, Europe’s largest sand dune. It’s an incredible place, and coupled with the pretty town and its huge beaches, Arcachon makes for an incredible destination. You could easily base yourself there for an entire holiday. But on a road trip, you can see the majority with 2-3 nights.
Things to do in Arcachon
Here are some ideas for things to do in and around Arcachon.
- Climb the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, for breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Landes Forest. This is a truly mind-blowing sight and one all four of us were wowed by. In peak season, the line of cars to get in is lengthy (up to 2 hours!) so I highly recommend cycling instead. We cycled directly from our Huttopia and it was a beautiful cycle, passing through a few cute villages en route.
- Tour Le Quartier de la Ville d’Hiver (the winter town), where you can see a colourful collection of late 19th- and early-20th-century villas with a variety of global architectural styles. There’s a little train that takes you on a tour, which is perfect for families.
- Take a boat tour around the Bassin d’Arcachon and visit Île aux Oiseaux, a bird sanctuary.
- Relax on the city centre Plage Pereire or take a walk along the picturesque Promenade du Front de Mer. There’s even a kids club on Plage Periere if you want help entertaining the kids.
- Take a trip south to the huge Cazaux Lac where gently sloping shores provide a perfect place for swimming and water sports. It’s great for kids who might find the sea a little choppy.
Where to eat in Arcachon
As with much of the Atlantic coast, seafood takes centre stage at many Arcachon restaurants, but with so many city vacationers, it also has a modern edge with dining options for every kind of diet. It’s another place we found easy as vegetarians.
Here are a few places we recommend…
- Sunset Bowls – bright and casual restaurant with a healthy, veg-forward menu
- Le Pique-Nique du Bassin – cute tapas restaurant in a bustling part of town
- Arcachon Market – lovely covered market with fresh produce and deli items. There’s a seafood-focused restaurant inside, plus lots of other good places around the perimeter. It’s a good place to pick up picnic stuff.
- La Maison du Glacier – the biggest ice cream selection I have ever seen (must have been over 100 flavours!). It’s in Moulleau, a tiny village between Dune du Pilat and Arcachon (we stopped there en route to the dune from our Huttopia).
Where to stay in Arcachon
Huttopia Arcachon
We stayed at Huttopia Archachon, which was our second time trying the Huttopia brand (the first time was in New England). We’re big fans of the brand, which has a Scandi nature-forward style and vibe. It was created with the purpose of luring city folk into nature, but with as many creature comforts as possible. We much prefer this to the all-bells-and-whistles approach of places like Eurocamp, which can be a bit too hectic and gaudy for me. Huttopia is a calmer alternative, but still with swimming pools, playground, pizza restaurant and plenty of activities for kids.
The Arcachon campsite feels remote, in a beautiful pine forest, but is actually only a 10-minute walk from the Winter Town and not much further from the beach. We hired bikes there and were able to cycle to Dune du Pilat in about 30 minutes.
There’s a mix of tented accommodation and cabins, plus some traditional camping pitches if you’re bringing your own gear.
My only qualm was the main pool, which was an awkward depth for me. I had to be on tippy toes to have my head above water, which was tricky when trying to look after the kids too. I could have done with it being about 30cm shallower! But other than that, it was perfect, and we would certainly go back.
Yelloh! Village Domaine Les Oréades
We also spent a couple of nights at a Yelloh Village campsite, Domaine Les Oreades, around 30 minutes south of Arcachon. This is more of a Eurocamp-style place with caravans and nightly entertainment like karaoke and talent shows. It’s a fairly small property (especially in comparison to the Eurocamp we stayed at in the Ardeche), which I liked as it made it less hectic. There are three pools – family, indoor, and adults-only. And there’s also a little splash pad and a playground with a bouncy castle.
The best thing is that it’s right next to Lake Sanguinet, a beautiful pine-fringed spot with a sandy beach and shallow water for paddling. This location really elevates the campsite from being fairly ordinary to something special.
My only complaint is the food, which was almost non-existent for vegetarians. We self-catered one night and collected pizza from nearby the other.
Other places to stay in Arcachon
A few other recommendations for places to stay in Arcachon…
- Hôtel Ville d’Hiver – a charming boutique hotel in the winter town with a blend of modern and traditional style.
- Victoria Boutique Hotel – modern boutique hotel near the beach and with a cute rooftop.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux, the capital of wine and a top foodie destination, is one of Paris’ most popular cities after Paris. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage city, filled with elegant 18th-century architecture, so just wandering the city is a pleasure. I’ve only ever stopped by briefly en route to somewhere else, but it’s high on my bucket list of places for a city break. So, unlike everywhere else on this list, most of these recommendations have come from research/friends, rather than being firsthand.
Things to do in Bordeaux
- Explore the trendy riverside area of Bastide on the other side of Pont Pierre. This is perfect in spring and summer when people fill the riverfront bars and restaurants.
- Visit Place de la Bourse and take a stroll along the Quai Louis XVIII by the Garonne River.
- Explore the Cité du Vin, an interactive museum dedicated to the world of wine.
- Take a day trip to the vineyards of Saint-Émilion for wine tours and tastings. Or do a wine class at the CIVB inside Maison du Vin de Bordeaux.
- Walk through Jardin Public, a beautiful garden in the heart of Bordeaux.
Where to eat and drink in Bordeaux
- You obviously need to stop at some wine bars, like Wine More Time, Point Rouge and Quatres Coins du Vins. You could also do a wine walking tour.
- Go to Les Halles de Bacalan for a pick of over 20 chef’s stalls. The Marche des Capuchins is another good place to try fresh food from the market and perhaps create a picnic.
- Au Bistro – for a classic French bistro meal
- Mets Mots – for treat, heads to this creative bistro in St-Seurin
Where to stay in Bordeaux
Bordeaux has a great mix of historic and modern hotels. A few that come highly recommended are:
- La Maison du Lierre – translated as The House of Ivy, this is a charming central guesthouse appropriately covered in vines.
- Mama Shelter Bordeaux – a trendy option with fun and quirky design. I’m a fan of the Mama Shelter aesthetic, and it’s also home to one of Bordeaux’s best rooftop bars.
- Chambres à Bord’O – cute B&B in the trendy Bastide area.
Médoc Atlantique
The Médoc Atlantique region combines two of my favourite things: wine and surf. It’s a gorgeous and lesser-touristed region where you can explore vineyards, cycle its paths, and explore miles of Atlantic coastline.
I fell for Medoc Atlantique – in large part due to our incredible surf camp at Ujusansa – but also because of the wildness of the region and its quietude, especially in comparison to places like Biarritz. You can easily find your own space here.
Things to do in Médoc Atlantique
We spent our time in Montalivet, a tiny surfing village where we did a family surf camp with Ujusansa. It’s one of the best family vacations we’ve ever had and one that I wax lyrical about in our full review. We loved it so much, we’re going back next year!
Here are some other things to do in the area.
- Tour some of the famous Médoc vineyards and taste the renowned local wines. Here’s a whole guide to wineries you could try.
- Spend time on the long, sandy beaches of the Atlantic Coast. We loved Montalivet, but other more popular options include Soulac-sur-Mer or Lacanau.
- If not joining a surf camp like Ujusansa, you could still do a surf lesson or two. It’s a fantastic place to learn.
- Cycle or hike through the peaceful Médoc Natural Park with views of both vineyards and the ocean. There are routes for all abilities, from pros to casual cyclists. See this page for cycle route ideas.
Where to stay In Medoc Atlantique
You know I’m going to recommend Ujusansa, but here are a few other options too…
- Le Lac – this B&B on Lake Lacanau has a focus on wellbeing and looks absolutely dreamy, all made of wood and with a peaceful, tropical vibe.
- Huttopia Lac de Carcans – you know we love the Huttopia brand, and we have friends who stayed at this one and gave rave reviews. They particularly loved the lakeside location.
- Stay in a wine chateau – if you’re prioritising wine over the coast, there are some incredible wine chateaus you can stay in around the Medoc region. Some that come recommended are: Le Chateau Real, Chateux Ormes de Pez or La Maison d’Estournel.
La Rochelle
La Rochelle is the first city I visited on France’s Atlantic coast and it was love at first sight. After many years travelling in America, I’m always stunned by the historic charms of Europe, and La Rochelle is a gorgeous example. Set beside 70km of coastline, the waterside city has a long, maritime history and its architecture is famed for its elegant limestone facades, which has given it the nickname, “The White City”.
It’s a charming place to spend a few days, or you can easily visit as a day trip from Île de Ré or nearby beach towns.
Things to do in La Rochelle
- Wander around the old port and climb the Tour de la Lanterne (originally a lighthouse and then a prison) for views across the city. There are two more towers – the leaning Tour Saint-Nicolas and Tour de la Chaine – and you can buy a single ticket for all three.
- Discover the Musée Maritime and explore La Rochelle’s seafaring history (there are lots of old boats to explore, including one with a tapas restaurant).
- La Rochelle’s aquarium is state of the art and has over 12,000 marine animals to explore.
- Relax at the sandy Plage des Minimes or one of Rochelle’s other city beaches. There’s a good cycle path to get there from the old port.
Where to eat and drink in La Rochelle
There are lots of cute pavement bistros in La Rochelle, which help give the city such a convivial, typically French vibe.
- La Bigoudène – we were with the kids, so we opted for this very cute creperie.
- L’Echoppe – an aesthetic boutique and café
- Le Bistrot Gourmand – popular spot with a terrace next to the port
Where to stay in Rochelle
We didn’t stay the night in La Rochelle, but here are two places on my wish list:
- Maisons du Monde Hôtel & Suites – gorgeous design hotel near the port
- Hotel Champlain – elegant city centre hotel in a converted 19th-century townhouse
Île de Ré
We spent a week in Île de Ré on a vacation with Steve’s family, all 13 of us! Just off the coast of La Rochelle, it’s a serene island where bikes are the preferred transport and you can spend your days exploring the charming villages and sandy beaches along the island’s extensive cycle paths.
Bear in mind, there is only one bridge to get on and off the island and there can be a large queue in the summer (we waited an hour!). This makes doing day trips off the island unattractive in high season.
Things to do on Île de Ré
I took time off social media while in Île de Ré and spent a gorgeous week, living on island time and soaking in all of its beauty. I’ll admit I wasn’t in the sightseeing mood, so didn’t venture beyond the stretch between Rivedeaux Plage and Saint-Martin-de-Ré. For me that was plenty, but if you want to do more, here are some more ideas for things to do…
- Rent a bike and explore the island’s many cycling paths, stopping at charming villages like Saint-Martin-de-Ré and Ars en Re. It takes around 2 hours to cycle from one end to the other. My favourite village was La Flotte, which had some lovely little boutiques. We hired bikes from Beach Bikes in Rivedeaux.
- Spend time at the beach. There are different options, depending on your priorities. See this handy guide. Surfers should go to Plage de Gros Jonc near Le Bois Plage-en-Ré. And we saw lots of kite surfers at Rivedoux Plage Nord, close to the bridge.
- Head to the very end of the island and visit the Phare des Baleines lighthouse for panoramic views of the island. You can also visit the salt pans and nature reserve at Lilleau des Niges at this end of the island.
Where to eat in Île de Ré
We mostly took advantage of our villa and self-catered while in Île de Ré. But a few places we went to and enjoyed were:
- Boulangerie Feuillette – we made a ritual out of getting pastries from here every morning. They were excellent, plus it’s also a good spot for a light lunch or evening aperitif.
- La Martinière – La flotte en Ré – we loved treating ourselves to ice creams from this gelateria in La Flute
- Le Pas Sage Du Marché – this casual restaurant next to the market in La Flotte is good for a big family meal with food to suit all tastes (including pizza)
- Le Saint Mart’ – popular spot for crepes in St Martin de Re.
Where to stay in Ile de Re
L’Île de Lumière
We stayed at this gorgeous villa, which was big enough for our huge family group of 13 people. We loved the stylish villa with plenty of shared indoor and outdoor space. And it was handily located in walking distance of the beach and village.
You could also adjust the depth of the pool, which was a really handy feature for the kids. You could even raise it entirely when not using it, so there was no risk of the little ones falling in.
Other places to stay in Île de Ré
A few other places that come highly recommended are:
- Huttopia – there are three Huttopia campsites on Île de Ré – Cote Sauvage, Ars-en-Re and Chardons Bleus.
- La Baronnie Hotel & Spa – go here for all-out luxury. Louis XVI bought it for Marie Antoinette!
Found this useful? Share it on Pinterest!
