Last updated on December 22, 2024
Sitting on La Concha beach while the kids play happily in the waves with the Old Town as their backdrop, I wondered if this might be Europe’s most family-friendly city break.
San Sebastian/Donostia has long been a bucket list destination for foodies, but its compact size, beachside location and Spanish welcome for kids, means it also makes for an amazing family vacation.
We spent a week there doing a home exchange in the centre of the Old Town. Our friends, who also have 2 kids, were there at the same time, staying just outside of the centre. It was a perfect place to spend a joint vacation, with loads of opportunities for the adults to hang out while the kids were happily entertained.
Here are our top tips for getting the most out of a city break in San Sebastian with kids.
If you’re in Spain for longer, see our Barcelona with kids guide or perhaps extend your trip up to the west coast of France.
Is San Sebastian good for families?
San Sebastian is a brilliant place for families as it manages to please both kids and adults in equal measure, which is exactly what we look for in a family trip. For the adults, the city itself is stunning and the kind of place where simply wandering around provides a good dose of history and culture. Plus there are museums, galleries, hikes and day trips to dip into.
And then for the kids, the star of the show is the beach. One of the cleanest city beaches in the world, La Concha is a perfect playground for families with shallow, calm waters protected by the bay. Kids attractions like the hilltop fairground and the aquarium are great for something different. And there are many playgrounds and green spaces around the city for little breaks between sightseeing.
Spanish culture embraces kids, so you’ll always feel welcome and it’s possible to enjoy some of the world-famous pintxos, even with kids in tow. We found some great bars where there was space for the kids to play while we enjoyed our meals.
Read on for all our tips on how to get the most out of a San Sebastian family vacation.
Things to do in San Sebastian with kids
Hang out at the beach
We’ve already said it, but La Concha Beach is one of the key things that makes San Sebastian such a family-friendly destination. The huge sandy beach is protected by the bay, so has calm waters, perfect for kids to play. There are even platforms with slides that older kids can swim out to.
The beach itself is huge, so despite being busy, it doesn’t feel too crowded even in the height of summer. We never had trouble finding a space to set up camp. The area nearer to the old town is the busiest, and then it gets a bit quieter the closer you get to Mount Igueldo. There are some play areas near the Mount Igueldo end too.
The promenade surrounding the beach is stroller-friendly, so it’s also a lovely spot for a beachside walk.
Do a surf lesson
San Sebastian’s other city beach, Zurriola, is on the other side of the old town, and unlike La Concha, isn’t protected by the bay. This makes it the better option for surfing. Go there to simply watch the surfers catching waves, or have a go yourself. There are lots of places that offer surf lessons.
Ride the funicular to Monte Igueldo and its fairground
One of the most iconic views of San Sebastian is from the top of Monte Igueldo, the big hill overlooking the Bay of Biscay. You can ride a funicular to the top, which itself is a thrill for kids. And then, atop the hill is an old-fashioned theme park with rides like a mini roller-coaster, bumper cars and log flume. To be honest, our trip here was a little fraught as the line for the funicular was really long and our kids had no patience with it. And then when we got to the top, there were a lot of tears after they didn’t win on some of the fairground games. Many people love it, but I personally was happy to get back down to the beach! The view is definitely worth it though.
Visit San Sebastian Aquarium
The San Sebastian Aquarium was a big hit with our kids. It’s not too big, but has enough to keep little ones entertained, from sharks to stingrays to octopus. The highlight for many is the underwater tunnel, where you can watch as sea creatures swim overhead. It’s right next to the harbor and old town, so easy to pair with a day of sightseeing.
Explore the Old Town (Parte Vieja)
San Sebastian’s Old Town is an unmissable part of the city and where you’ll find the majority of its pintxos restaurants and iconic architecture. It’s well touristed but also lived in, so the culture is alive and vibrant. This is where we spent most of our time, and I was enchanted by the whole vibe.
The large plaza, Plaza de la Constitución, is an ideal place to head to if the kids need to run around. For older kids, the old town’s San Telmo Museum could be of interest with exhibits about Basque culture.
Take a Boat Ride to Santa Clara Island
For a mini-adventure, take a boat ride from the harbor to Santa Clara Island, which you can see from La Concha. The island has a small beach and a lighthouse, and the ride there has great views of the city.
Ride the carousel and play in Parque Alderi Eder
Right next to La Concha beach, Alderdi Eder Gardens is a good city garden with shady areas, paths and fountains. There’s also a great playground and an old-fashioned carousel. It’s a scenic spot to take a break from the bustle of the city.
Play at Cristina Enea Park
Cristina Enea Park is a lush green space in the city, including ponds with ducks, playgrounds, and plenty of open space for games and picnics. You might even spot peacocks wandering around. The park has many shaded areas and benches, making it an ideal spot for a picnic or simply to relax after a busy morning of sightseeing.
Hike up Mount Urgull
The walk up Mount Urgull is fairly family-friendly, depending on how much your kids like to walk. The trail is shaded and has stunning views of the city and coastline. At the summit, you’ll find the Castillo de la Mota, an old fortress with a large statue of Christ overlooking the city, like a mini version of Rio’s. I’d avoid doing this with kids if it’s super hot.
There’s another good and fairly easy hike at the end of Zurriola Beach that goes along the coast and up the mountain a little.
Take a day trip
There are loads of places to visit near San Sebastian. Bilbao is only an hour away and then there are lots of other seaside villages even closer, including Hondarribia, a picturesque fishing village with colourful houses and cobbled streets. Zarautz is good for its beach and pintxos, and Getaria has a lovely old town.
If you’re into Game of Thrones, Zumia and Gaztelugatxe were both filming locations for the show. You could also dip into the French part of the Basque Country and visit one of the surf towns like Biarritz or Saint Jean de Luz or the pretty town of Saint Jean Pied de Port.
Where to eat in San Sebastian with kids
One of the best things about San Sebastian full stop is its food – it’s one of the world’s most famous foodie destinations, largely due to its pintxos culture. It has the highest number of Michelin-starred restaurants per capita in Europe and is second only to Kyoto, Japan, for the highest number of Michelin stars per square meter.
When travelling with kids, especially little ones, those Michelin-starred restaurants and teeny tiny bars might be a bit of a stretch, but the welcoming nature of the Spanish/Basque culture towards families means there are many places where you can try pintxos with kids. In fact, it’s the ability to have evening meals in places where the kids are independently entertained that makes San Sebastian such a family-friendly city.
We especially loved eating in restaurants next to playgrounds or in Plaza de la Constitucion, where the kids were able to run around freely in the square while we ate and drank at the restaurants around its perimeter.
Spanish food is also fairly family friendly – our kids loved, and largely existed on, tortilla, pan con tomate, croquetas and cheese. And if your kids eat seafood, calamari is usually a win.
Here are some recommendations for places to eat in San Sebastian with kids…
- Ambrosio – this is the best of both worlds for a family meal in San Sebastian. The food is excellent, there are options the kids will enjoy (like croquetas and chips), and it’s in a big square where the kids can run around. Ours were entertained for about two hours, having races and whatnot, while we got to enjoy conversation with friends. Be aware that while the plaza is largely pedestrianised, occasionally, a trash/cleaning van will drive through. So keep an eye out for those and warn the kids.
- Other restaurants in Plaza de la Constitucion – while Ambrosio was our favourite, there are other good restaurants in the plaza that have the same benefit of lots of space for kids to run around. Other options include: Tamboril (looked great but you need to book ahead), Txurrut Terraza (drinks only), K21(not bad, but not as good as Ambrosio).
- Baluarte Donostia –the food here is good, but it wouldn’t be my first choice in San Sebastian. However, the restaurant is right next to a big playground that you can see from the tables outside. It’s ideal for a meal where the parents get to chat and the kids play. You can also get takeaway drinks and have them on the benches under the trees, even closer to the playground.
- Pizzeria Italianfood – good place to grab a slice of pizza or get a takeaway. There’s a playground and benches in Zuloaga Plaza where you can eat it.
- Atari Gastroleku – this is a good pintxos bar to try with kids as you can eat them outside and there’s space on the steps of the church for kids to hang out.
- Carlos Arribas Maisu-Izozkigilea – the best ice cream we had in San Sebastian. Loads of flavours and a gourmet approach.
- La Viña – for Basque cheesecake
- Otaegui – old fashioned bakery for traditional sweets and pastries
- Motx Coffee – one for the adults. This was my favourite coffee place in the old town. Syra Coffee on the same road is also good.
I also had a night out with my friend while the dads looked after the kids, which was a great opportunity to try some of the smaller pintxos bars, which are more tricky with little kids (or at least more difficult to properly enjoy). These were our favourites…
- Bardulia – traditional pintxos with a twist
- Ganbara – Michelin recommended pintxos bar with an elevated but traditional style. Mixed mushrooms are amazing!
- La Cuchara de San Telmo – high-end pintxos that were repeatedly recommended to us by foodies, and lived up to the hype.
- Txepetxa – popular pintxos spot
- Juantxo – the best tortilla in town
- Borda Berri – get the risotto!
- Paco Bueno – good place to try the local fizzy wine, txakoli
Where to stay in San Sebastian with kids
We did a home exchange in San Sebastian right in the centre of the old town. It was a perfect place to stay within walking distance of the beach and in the heart of all the main attractions. I’d highly recommend staying around here for pure convenience. And while it was fairly noisy on weekend nights, we had no issues with sleep.
If you’re a member of home exchange (and if not, why not?!), see if you can find somewhere similar. Or also consider somewhere outside the city as there is a good public transport system. Our friends did this and it mean they had the added bonus of a pool within their apartment complex, which would be unlikely in the city centre.
And if home exchange isn’t an option, here are some hotel recommendations…
Finding the right accommodation can make all the difference when travelling with children. San Sebastian offers a range of family-friendly hotels and apartments that provide comfort and convenience.
- Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra – grand hotel right on the beachfront with spacious family rooms and babysitting services.
- Villa Soro – charming boutique hotel located slightly outside the city centre but still within walking distance of the beach. The luxurious hotel has large rooms and beautiful gardens.
- Hotel Maria Cristina – huge, luxury hotel on the waterfront between the two beaches. Welcoming to families with big family rooms.
- Green Nest Hostel Uba Aterpetxea – budget-friendly eco-hostel with easy access to public
- Pensión Garibay – affordable guesthouse just a short walk from La Concha beach and the Old Town.
San Sebastian FAQs
When to go to San Sebastian
We were in San Sebastian in the height of summer in August, which meant it was super busy, but it also had the benefit of being really warm and perfect beach weather. If you prefer fewer crowds, late spring (May-June) or early autumn (September-October) is a good option when the weather is warm but not too hot. I’d say summer is best for kids though as then you can take full advantage of the beach, which is the city’s biggest perk for being a good family city break.
How to get to San Sebastian
San Sebastian is easily accessible by plane, train, bus, or car. The nearest airport is San Sebastian Airport (EAS), but most international visitors fly into Bilbao (BIO) or Biarritz (BIQ), both within an hour’s drive. Direct buses run frequently from Bilbao Airport to San Sebastian, making it a convenient option. The city is also well-connected by train, with services from Madrid, Barcelona, and other major cities.
For those coming from France, you can take a train to Hendaye and cross the border by local train or bus. Driving to San Sebastian is straightforward, with major motorways linking it to Spain and France. If you’re arriving by car, bear in mind that parking is limited in the city centre and can be expensive. We were midway through a road trip, so had to arrive by car even though we didn’t need it to get around the city. We ended up parking in a long-term car park and leaving our car there for the entire duration of our trip, which cost around 20 euro per day.
How to get around San Sebastian
San Sebastian is a compact, walkable city, making exploring on foot pretty easy. The public bus system, Dbus, is efficient and covers the whole city, which is an easy way to reach further areas like Monte Igueldo or the Gros neighbourhood. Biking is also popular, thanks to dedicated cycle paths, and taxis are readily available for convenience. While driving is an option, parking can be difficult in the city centre, so it’s often best to park and explore by foot or public transport, which is what we did.
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