Last updated on May 24, 2023
Mexico City is a place that stole our hearts and made us realise our love for Mexico goes beyond the village of San Pancho.
The laidback pace of Mexico suits us and despite being one of the worldās largest cities, we found Mexico City both manageable and charming. This was largely due to where we stayed in the the bohemian district of La Condesa, a fashionable area with tree-lined streets and a bounty of cute restaurants, cafes and boutiques.
Condesa neighbours Roma, a similarly arty enclave, but with more of a hipster edge, and we fell in love with both.
Here are the reasons we love it. Plus some ideas for things to do in Condesa and Roma next time you visit.
I’ve also written a guide to the best hip boutique hotels in Condesa and Roma.
Things to do in La Condesa and Roma
Parque Mexico
Aside from the obvious joy of dog school (see below), Parque Mexico is also a beautiful park to wander around, filled with lush trees and promenades perfect for strolling. Itās always a hive of activity, especially at the weekends when you can catch live music and dancers practising their moves. We walked through the park every day and couldnāt make it from one end to the other without saying again: āI love this place so muchā.
El Pendulo book cafe
The most famous El Pendulo store is in Polanco and regularly features on lists of the best bookshops in the world. Itās well deserved and we loved visiting that one, but we also grew to love our local El Pendulo store in Condesa.
Itās smaller than the Polanco shop but has the same cosy charm and is the ideal place for whiling away hours trying to work while getting distracted by all the people and books. Thereās also a Pendulo in Roma, which is equally beautiful ā I think it may be my favourite chain of bookshops in the world.
Dog school
On our first day in Condesa, Steve and I were walking around Parque Mexico when we came across a large group of dogs of all shapes and sizes sitting placidly side by side with no leashes, just chilling. āWhat is up with those dogs?ā we said. You would never see such a thing in England. There were other dogs running past, there were even cats, and still this group of dogs didnāt move.
We soon learned that this was dog school, a place where people leave their dogs to be taught obedience by a group of what must be dog whisperers. Steve and I are massive dog lovers; not having a dog is one of the sacrifices of travelling so much, so we grew to love walking past the dog school every day and seeing what pupils were in attendance.
From huskies to a little spitz, we saw so many and always so well behaved ā apart from the odd one who had to be tied up away from the crowd, presumably having been naughty. Donāt miss the dog school!
Walk tree-lined streets
One of the appeals of Condesa is simply the beauty of itās streets. Itās made up of lots of charming, wide avenues, with trees that form a canopy above. When youāre in one of the biggest cities in the world, these touches of nature are greatly appreciated.
Admire the architecture
The streets are gorgeous and the buildings that line them are even better. Iām a big fan of colourful homes and Condesa and Roma are filled with brightly coloured facades spanning the entire rainbow. The architecture is varied with a lot of beautifully restored Art Deco buildings. We walked round for hours filling up our Instagram with pictures of pretty buildings.
Mercado Roma
Mercado Roma is hipster central; a covered market filled with little food counters from some of Mexico Cityās most popular restaurants and cafes. The tamale de quest con rajas tacos from Azul Antojo are some of the best tacos weāve ever tasted, and we were always finding excuses to treat ourselves to some churros from El Moro. The Ozio ice cream stall is also amazing.
Casa Quimera
We stumbled upon Casa Quimera and couldnāt believe our luck ā itās an almost entirely vegan food market with a collection of stalls selling veggie versions of Mexican dishes. Next door are some more meaty options, and thereās also a great coffee stand. As you can imagine, itās another hangout popular with hipsters.
Avenida Ćmsterdam
Avenida Ćmsterdam encircles central Condesa with Parque Mexico in the middle. In the centre of the road thereās a pedestrianised tree-lined walkway, which is a wonderful place to walk around, away from the cars and bustle of the streets ā it’s a slice of jungle in the city. Condesa is filled with these delightful pockets of nature. There’s also some fabulous Art Deco architecture on either side of the avenue.
El Ocho Cafe Recreativo
Steve and I are games geeks and were delighted to find El Ocho, a cafe entirely devoted to play where you get a menu of games along with the food. From Scrabble to Uno to some Mexican games weād never heard of, there were loads to choose from.
Bathe in the golden light
Everywhere has a golden hour, that beautiful time of day when the light starts to fade and paints everything in a golden glow, but Mexico City seems to have one that is even more magical than most. Make sure you don’t miss it.
Enigma Rooms
This discovery took our game geekdom to a new level. Weād heard about the concept before, but tried our first escape room while in Mexico City at Condesaās EnigmaĀ Rooms. We were locked in a Sherlock Holmes themed room and given an hour to follow the clues and find our way out. We like it so much, we want back a few days later to try the Jigsaw room. So much fun!
Enjoy the amazing restaurants
There are tons of restaurants and cafes to choose from in Condesa and Roma. Weāve singled a few out, but others to mention that serve good vegetarian food include Ciena (farm-to-table cuisine), Ojo de Aqua (great juices), Pizzas Nosferatu (great veggie options, but beware of the grasshoppers!), Yamasan Ramen House (great veggie ramen), Miloās (mediterranean food in a beautiful setting), Por Siempre (a vegan taqueria) and Chiquitito Cafe (tiny place that takes its coffee seriously).
Maque is fantastic for pastries. The breakfast in El Pendulo is also great. And, of course your options are multiplied for non-veggies ā Mexicans really loved their meat!
Shop in cute boutiques
Roma and Condesa are magnets for hipsters and as such there are plenty of little boutiques filled with a full spectrum ofĀ hipster needs, from vintage clothes to independent designers and shops selling glasses made out of wood. There are some particularly good ones in Roma along Colima street, including 180 Grados.
Visit El Centro
A great benefit of Condesa is that itās close to the centre of the city so itās easy to get to most of the main sights. You can hop on the metro or grab an Uber if itās too late. An Uber all the way to the airport (half an hour) only costs around Ā£7. Definitely make sure you go explore Frida and Diego’s Mexico City, visiting the Blue House and the homes of Diego’s murals.Ā
Try local tacos
We used to recommend Tacos Gus, but it’s sadly now closed. But another good place to try authentic local tacos is El Pescadito, the place to go for shrimp tacos (which friends assure us are amazing!). Taqueria Orinoco, a small chain with branches in both Condesa and Roma, specialises in northern-style tacos and is a big hit with both locals and tourists. And El Califa is another popular option. For another local street food, try the tortas at La Esquina del Chilaquil, which are legendary (expect long queues though!).
Explore the local art scene
Condesa and Roma are areas that attract artists and creativity, so there are plenty of places to see local artwork. One of the most popular options is Mooni where the walls are plastered in local art for sale. House of Gaga is a minimalist contemporary gallery, and Proyecto Parallelo has art by both locals and international artists.
Go the theatre at Foro Shakespeare
Housed in an old bookshop, Foro Shakespeare is nowadays a theatre space and museum. There are three different theatre spaces (for 190, 58 and 35 guests) and they host a varied programme of both established and up-and-coming artists.
Romita Comedor – now closed
There are a lot of bars to choose from in Condesa and Roma, but for something special we loved Romita Comedor. Itās a little fancy but worth putting up with the slightly haughty service for the amazing architecture. It gets really busy at night, but is a good place to grab an afternoon coffee or pre-dinner cocktail.
A good bar to try instead is Baltra Bar, which is often listed among the world’s top bars, especially for its cocktails.
Where to stay in Condesa, Mexico City
I’ve written a full guide to the most hip boutique hotels in Condesa and Roma. But here are a few recommendations to get you started.
Airbnb
Airbnb has plenty of stylish, hip options in La Condesa and La Roma. We stayed in an apartment thatās no longer available, but there are some gorgeous options on offer. I recommend taking a look at the Airbnb Plus selection for some of the most beautifully designed places in the city. If you sign up to Airbnb with this link, youāll get $25 off your first booking.
Condesa DF
Probably the most trendy hotel in the neighbourhood, the slick Condesa DF has a beautiful open courtyard and offers a stylish mix of art deco style with modern touches.
La Valise
La Valise is number one on my list of places I’d like to stay in Mexico City. There are just three rooms and all have been impeccably styled by owner Emmanuel. It looks stunning.
AR 218
The stylish AR 218 has beautiful sweeping staircases and a simple, modern design with Mexican touches.
Casa Dovela
Casa Dovela is an impeccably designed guesthouse from architect Ludwig Godefroy and the the creators of interior store Chic by Accident. It has a California-meets-Mexican-artisan vibe and couldn’t be more stylish. There are three 1-2 bedroom suites to choose from and it’s in a perfect location in central Condesa.
Don’t forget your travel insurance!
Don’t forget your travel insurance! We recommend World Nomads or True Traveller who both offer reliable, comprehensive cover, including medical, evacuation, baggage and a range of adventure sports and activities. You can buy both True Traveller and World Nomads insurance even when you’ve left home, which is unusual for travel insurance companies.
Save time and money on your next trip
See our travel resources page for all our best travel tips, including how to save money with the best cards, what insurance to choose, and all our favourite tools and tricks.
And here are some extra dog photos, just for joy.
What a wonderful description of things to do in Mexico City. I want to go back there!
Oh noo– I had just convinced myself that I could wait to see Mexico City until next year…but look at that food! This whole area looks so open and green and vibrant. I always imagined cramped streets and food stalls when I thought of Mexico City (not half bad either, of course!) but woof, this is callin’ to me in a whole new way. Beautiful photos, by the way. Are these film shots?
Yep, it’s definitely worth visiting! Coyoacan is another beautiful area of of the city. And no, these are all either taken on a iPhone or a Canon 5D Markii. The secret is using VSCO Cam in Lightroom. It magically makes it look like they were taken on film š
We are in Mexico City now and staying at a hotel in La Condesa. I would love to see the dog school. Where can I see this? What street? I enjoyed your dog pictures!
It’s in the Parque Mexico in Condesa. Afraid I can’t remember the exact location, but the park isn’t that big, so you’ll find it!
Nice photos of Mexico City! I’ve never been to Mexico and most if my friends only stay within resort area. The city looks stunning through the photos. I wonder if it’s safe/easy to navigate through the city?
Yep, it’s super easy to navigate. There’s a good metro and bus system, and if you want something more convenient, Uber is a good option. There are certainly areas to avoid, but Condesa and Roma felt very safe to us.
I am from Mexico City. Our city is just like any other big city. You should be cautious anywhere. Would you walk alone in some parts of Detroit? Probably not.
I love the way you describe the world š
Seems like I have to go back to DF and dedicate all of my time there to this neighborhood. So much I haven’t seen. I’ve been to another book store/cafe. I really love those places, I actually thought about opening a business like this (not seriously just talking about a friend “oh that would be perfect for us”).
When I spent time there last summer I didn’t go to Roma Market as I was already tired from the day. Now seeing it in your post, I’m really annoyed I didn’t go. But well, I live in Mexico right now, so I will definitely go back there at some point. And when I’m going, I will spend most of my time in Roma/ Condesa
Hey there! Beautiful blog! And post!! Your pictures are gorgeous, and are making me pretty pumped for a Mexico trip that I’m planning, hopefully this fall. Thanks for the inspiration – looking forward to reading more of your blog š
Love this! I will make sure to visit when I go to Mexico in two weeks!
it so nice city, i drunk coffee in there and listen a music i love, great ! i want to go back there
Condesa is my favorite colonia. I loved the dog school too! I’m glad to hear people loving Mexico City. It’s a wonderful place!
Thank you for your detailed description! We did everything in your list and we loved it! Would have missed a lot if not for this!! Thank you!my wife s a vegetarian and this helped us share great food without one of us compromising!
So pleased to hear it was useful, and that you got to eat some of Mexico’s amazing food!
Thanks for the vegetarian restaurant options, my kids do not eat meat for the love of animals, we will check the places you mentioned.
Dear Victoria,
How were you able to enjoy all the vegetarian and vegan food and bypass Montezuma’s revenge? We want to be able to eat all that great food described, and forgo getting sick, if possible.
Thanks, GW
We didn’t have any problems with the food in Mexico City. I think the hygiene standards are pretty high!
Thank you so much for this! I am moving there for two months for work. Was skeptical but this is making me incredibly excited. I am also a vegetarian so this was very helpful.
Thank you very much for this. I think it suits me. I think this is a suitable vegetarian dishes.
Thanks so much for these tips. I’ll be staying not far from Condesa, so hopefully I’ll get to check out some great veggie eats!
Hi loved stumbling upon this post in my mexican planning search, great instagram as well! Do you reccomend having pesos in cash or just carrying US$?
Shandra from CuraƧao
It’s definitely good to have pesos. As far as I remember, it tends to be touristy places that deal in dollars.
Just got back from CDMX and stayed in Condesa. No exagerations here, it’s exactly as described with a lot more. Walk to Bosque de Chapultapec and you can spend all day, or two days just wandering around in a verdant paradise almost alone (weekdays). Be sure to take a few hours to go to El Castillo-it’s unbelievable. And if you’re there on a Sunday, check out the ciclovia when they close down Reforma for cyclists and pedestrians.
Oh, and make sure to find a place to get a “special” order of guac with chapulines….close your eyes and enjoy the salty, spicy crunch.
Is foursquare better to use than Yelp in Mexico City?
Hi Ximena, I’m afraid I don’t know the answer to that. We were using foursquare. Have a great time!
Very beautiful place
Thanks to its reference
Sadly, Romita Comedor is no longer in the building you listed. We went last night and the restaurant that took its place has rude service and not great food. They’ve also added “club lights” above the bar. Thanks for the recommendation though. It did look like a great place from your pics. Glad you were able to enjoy it. Wish we hadn’t missed it! I love your article. We read it prior to coming and while we were here. We stayed in Condesa.
We will be staying in Roma. I really enjoyed your piece and look forward to being in CDMX in a weeks time.
Warm Regards
Sunita.
Have a great time!
Great blog! Look forward to visiting Mexico City in November. Love your images also – out of curiosity what camera do you use?
Some are taken on a Canon 5D Markii, and the rest are iPhone!
Whoop! Thanks for all these great recommendations! We are also vegetarians and we also lived in San Pancho (2009-2010). We are headed to CDMX this November for my 40th birthday. We’ll definitely be following in your footsteps! — Hillary
Awesome. Have a great time! I miss Mexico City!
One of the appeals of Condesa is simply the beauty of “its” streets. š
Great article!
Wow, this was such lovely, thoughtful and very detailed description of this beautiful old town (colonia) in Mexico City (DF)
I had the pleasure of growing up in these streets, went to school in the area, and overall my whole pre-teen, teen era was spent playing and hanging out with friends in Parque Mexico and Espana, I’d like to add that my first kiss was on a bench surrounded by trees in Parque Mexico, near the fountain…. Never forget that moment….!!
I now live in West Palm Beach Forida and these pictures and stories just bring me back!! I need to go visit my old stomp grounds to feel the new vibe and to remember who I was a long, long time ago…!!
Thank you for bringing all these memories back again, much love….
Great article! We leave for our first trip to Mexico City in just two days and recently switched our hotel from one in Polanco to one in Condesa, and now I’m so happy we did!
We have been in CDMX for one week with 12 more to go. We had to abort Sevilla for the winter due to Schengen Area rules and inability go get a Spanish visa. CDMX was on the winter list so came here on very short notice against the wishes of some family and friends. The first week has been so amazing. I am sure that we will like this much better than Sevilla. Stumbled across your blog which is quite informative and useful. We are staying in Condesa and enjoying it. Sorry that two of hour places are closed permanently but we will explore the rest.
Jim & Sandy
Glad it’s useful! Have a great time š
Loved your post Victoria! Informative, personal and visual.
I’m from MX City but I’m volunteering abroad. As a freelancer I’m creating a web page for a temporary campaign that will highlight some of the particularities of this charming inviting neighborhood for a commercial purpose. Would you allow me to use a couple of your photos with a link to this blog post and photocredits?
Thanks,
Creaphik
I also enjoyed these alluring things during my last journey and we came back with stunning memories,
Great post! Other things near Parque Mexico:
Please add Tepoznieves frozen dessert! It’s like an icy with fruits, nuts, or flowers, mixed with icecream! Unbelievable!
And also Ecobicis, rentable scooters, motos, etc!
The restaurant of a cooking school
Hoola hoop classes on weekends, 5 years strong now!
Famous Maque panque de elote souffle muffin (50% more $$$ than 2 years ago)
Japanese food everywhere (2X1 specials)
Near red line of Metrobus which goes to Centro Historico, Zona Rosa, Roma Norte, Condesa,, Roma Sur, WTC, etc
Beautiful piece!!! š
I have just spent 8-days exploring CDMX on my own. Walking around not knowing what I will come across….
I found the Condesa neighbourhood on my travels, and absolutely fell in love. I was then told about neighbouring La Roma…and my heart skipped a beat. I have now decided I found āmy happy placeā and will be moving from Australia to live and work aboard in CDMX for 6-12 months.
The tree lined streets, locals walking their dogs, cute cafes, restaurants and boutique stores are what stole my heart. All within walking distance to the hustle & bustle of downtown. Perfect mix of what Iām looking for.
Thank-you for confirming all the feelings I felt in your post š¤©
So pleased you loved it too. Such an amazing city!
What great & current information, thank you! Weāre staying at an Airbnb in Condessa for a week in February (in 1 month). First time visit from Canada and really looking forward to it! Weāve been to Mexico many times, love the people, the food…the heat š, really looking forward to the City! Any recommendations for a special lunch or dinner on Valentineās Day?
Hi Pat,
I’m currently planning my trip to Mexico City and I’m actually wondering whether you would be willing to share your experience with staying in Condessa!
Thanks a lot!
Best,
Dalia
Went to Condesa and Roma today and visited several of the sites you suggested. Had a coffee and bought a book at El Pendulo, lunch at Yamasan Ramen House, walked around Av. Amsterdam and Parque Mexico, and checked out Mercado Roma. Thanks!
Yay! SO pleased this was useful! And quite jealous too ā I’d love to be back in Condesa!
I didnāt read all the comments but would like to add that the summer weather is just wonderful. An excellent place to escape the heat with nice afternoon rains to clean the air and exciting evening thunderstorms.
Just read your blog after arriving in Condesa yesterday , having coffee at El Pendulo , thank you for the recommendation! ( I alway search out bookshops when travelling )
Thanks for the tips about La Condesa. Dog school was easy to spot,plus there are dogs everywhere! Such a wonderful variety of breeds. Walking the Ćmsterdam Circle was delightful as we got to see interesting architecture, shops, cafes and people. We were a bit burned out by the crowds, especially after attending the Dias de los Muertos parade with a million or so other people. La Condesa is literally a breath of fresh air!