Last updated on January 11, 2024
We saved Berlin for years, keeping it in our pocket as a place we knew we’d love to spend time. The expectations built up, and by the time we finally made it, we were somewhat afraid the city may not live up to the stories that had drawn us. Would it be the laidback, arty haven that so many raved about?
It was that, and it was more. We lived there for five months, and fell in love a little deeper every day. It was a life of bikes, brunches, old fashioneds, inventive ice-creams and strolls along the canal. It may be our favourite city. Here’s a little taste of what our digital nomad life in Berlin looked like…
We started by moving into a little apartment in Bergmannkiez, Kreuzberg. It’s a little more like Prenzlaueur Berg than the rest of Kreuzberg, which makes it a little fancy. I had a very beautiful desk –a tranquil spot until I turned round to Steve’s side of the room!
If you’ve ever wondered what it looks like to edit a film, then here it is! I felt a little like I was in an episode of Homeland, in the midst of an epic mystery with Steve as chief investigator.
Later we moved to the canal, and the Neukölln side of Kreuzberg – a little less fancy and in the midst of the Kreuzberg buzz.
We lived next to this bridge and I never tired of the view, day…
… or night. Sometimes we’d spot a kayak, or people just floating on rubber dinghys, beers in hand and a ghetto blaster on the go.
Our second apartment had a little reminder for me to write. It was small place with space for only one desk, so I spent much of my time in cafes.
Luckily, there were plenty to choose from. My favourites became Katies Blue Cat …
… and Tishendorf on Friedelstrasse.
In Bergmannkiez, I loved Kiez Rösteri, a serious coffee house with every brew you can think of. They also roast their own beans.
As always, I ate lots of cake.
Katulki, also on Friedelstrasse, did perfect bite size morsels.
But my favourite cakes of all were the filled muffins in Bully’s Bakery. They also make great pizza.
We bought bikes and rode everywhere, taking photos along the way.
There’s no end of interesting sights as you cycle the streets of Berlin. Whether it be some awesome art …
… an excellent dog ….
… or a statue wearing a t-shirt.
Berlin is the most bike-friendly city I’ve ever been to and we both revelled in adopting two wheels.
Bikes are so popular, there are even inner tube vending machines!
Berlin is the closest we’ve been to the UK since we left to go travelling, so at weekends friends often came to visit.
One of them got stuck in a tree.
We’d take them to our favourite brunch spots – Lagari …
… and Bastard. Berlin is all about the brunch at weekends, and to our delight they serve it all day.
We finally bought a slack line and understood how much more difficult it is than it looks. It was the perfect pastime in Berlin’s proliferation of beautiful parks.
Our favourite was Tempelhof, an old airport whose grounds have been made into parkland. There’s a baseball pitch, allotments, a dog park, vast swatches of nature reserve, and more appears each week.
We loved cycling down the runway and playing the art mini golf where each hole had been designed by a different artist.
Sometimes we went to galleries …
… stumbled across new bars …
… or watched karaoke in Mauerpark.
We drank a lot of cocktails.
Berlin is full of great food. Our friends, Dan and Audrey, introduced us to our what became our favourite Turkish restaurant – Azzam at 54 Sonnenallee – where we could both eat for less than €10.
We also loved Baraka for Egyptian / Moroccan feasts.
And every week, we looked forward to Street Food Thursday for a taste of world cuisine in the bustling Markthalle Neun.
When summer came, there was an added street food option at the Bite Club on the Spree (also in Mitte every other week). This Indian dish from Chai Wallahs was particularly delicious.
The city never gets old. There’s always something new to do – a bar to discover, a bike ride to take, food to eat, and streets to wander.
Oh Berlin, we miss you. We know we’ll soon be back. You are, after all, the city where we got engaged!
I know this post is somewhat whimsical, so for a more informative guide, I recommend Dan and Audrey’s beginner’s guide to Berlin, this three-day Berlin itinerary, and Amelie’s guide to the best vegan restaurants in Berlin.
Wonderful photos and commentary as usual. It really brought back memories of my visit to you and what an amazing city Berlin is. x
Yes! It was lovely to share some time there with you x
Wonderful! Such a nice look back on your time there. And oh my god, Azzam! I think we’ll likely be eating there at least once a week when we move – it’s only a 15 minute walk from our place! “The Neukölln side of Kreuzberg”, though?! They are distinct boroughs, separated by the canal.
As in the side of Kreuzberg right next to Neukölln, rather than the Tempelhof side where we lived the first time. I know they’re different boroughs!
Right. Yes, sorry for jumping down your throat. Now I read it again, that’s clear! I think I’ve been teaching too long, so I see mistakes and inconsistencies everywhere, even where none exist!
Ha! I know that problem! Years as a copyeditor mean I have a lot of problems with ungrammatical signs. They are everywhere!
I loved reading this! I visited Berlin many years ago for a few days…at the end of December. I had been so looking forward to the city and spent my time wandering around what I was missing – why wasn’t I seeing the Berlin everyone had told me they loved?? I didn’t get it. But, I would love to go back again (preferably in better weather) and give it another try!
Oh yes, you must! It’s awesome!
This looks absolutely wonderful, guys! I think Berlin definitely needs to be included in our plans for 2014!
Yes! Do it!
I just found your site. Great tips for Berlin which I have visited only twice and shortly over weekends.thanks!
Thanks 🙂
We were staying in Berlin just few metres from the Azzam last month, but sampled all available falafels in all other bistros and restaurants. Oh my, I would have one right now 🙂 I love this film-editing-design-curtain!
Great location! Glad you found it 🙂
Such magnificent photos! The food, the faded colors at dusk, riding bikes across the sprawl, the madness of Mauerpark – that’s exactly how I remember Berlin. Your entire post was like a dizzying ride through a bumpy memory lane. Guess I also miss Berlin. Thank you!
Aw, so pleased you like it! I imgaine I’ll look back on this post in much the same way!
What a lovely post about this very special city! I live in a town on the opposite side of Germany – close to the Dutch border – but have been there many times. Every time I return to Berlin I am amazed about how much the city has changed in between my visits; Berlin is truly capable of constantly reinventing itself, yet remaining distinctively “berlinerisch” all the same. I will most certainly mark the places you mentioned for future visits, although I think I’ve already been to quite a few!
Happy travels in Slovenia and much love from Münster!
Thanks Katrin. It’s good to know Berlin manages to stay Berlinerisch. I’m counting on that for our return!
Nice post, Victoria. Sounds really amazing. I wonder sometimes how you all do everything you do, but perhaps it always seems like that when you are on the outside looking in. Big hugs to you and Steve.
You made such a nice life there, it must have been hard to leave! But how wonderful to have gotten engaged to the man you love, in the city you love. Just think how much fun it will be to celebrate your anniversaries there!
That is SUCH a good idea!
Charming life of Berlin. You know what, I am inspired to create my little office at home after looking at your first picture! 🙂
What a great post. We’re looking to spend a month in Berlin soon, so lots of tips and ideas we can borrow from the above.
Thank you! Enjoy Berlin. We really miss it there.
Hey!
Looks amazing and you have inspired us to go there next year.
Do you know roughly how much it costs to rent an apartment there? Just for us two 🙂
Carmen
Sorry for such a slow reply! We paid £650 for the first place and about £700 for the second one.
Victoria, I can’t believe we were neighbors and I only found out now!? (Or maybe I forgot?)
I live exactly near that bridge too and many of these still are my favorite places as well. Thank god, they still exist! 😀
Let me know, when you are coming back for a visit!