Ubud Essentials

Ubud travel guide and tips

Ubud is a town of extremes. Some people fall over heels for its yoga-healthy living-new age vibes, while others find it all a bit too touristy. One thing that can’t be denied is the town’s beauty. It’s surrounded by lush jungle and rice paddies, and there are ceremonies almost every day.

The name itself means medicine and as such the town has become a magnet for not only Balinese healers, but also Western alterative health practitioners of every kind – something that was only exacerbated by the book and film, Eat, Pray, Love.

Steve and I lived there for five months and learned to love the town behind the tourist façade. I also threw myself into the health scene with mixed results.

Ubud travel guide

Here’s a little guide to get you started in Ubud.

Travel Essentials Ubud

Best Areas in Ubud

Central Ubud

Central Ubud is made up of a very busy one-way system, lined with shops and restaurants. At one corner is the Monkey Forest, and at the other end the Royal Palace and  Market. Along this circuit and the roads that run off of it / parallel to it is where you’ll find most of the town’s best restaurants. The two main roads are called Hanuman and Monkey Forest Road.


Penastanan is a little village that sits above Ubud, about 20 minutes walk out of town. It’s popular with artists and ex-pats, and is where we chose to live during our time there. It’s much quieter than central Ubud and there are many beautiful villas in the rice fields.

The downside of this is that demand from foreigners mean that the rice fields themselves are being built upon at an alarming rate. We didn’t relaise that when we arrived and felt increasingly uncomfortable about out newly-built house as time went on.

That said, Penanstanan is a beautiful place with a relaxed vibe. It has a few great restaurants, some with beautiful views across the valley and is a wonderful place to wander around exploring the local art work.

Nyuh Kuning

This area is on the other side of the Monkey Forest and is a mostly residential area, popular with ex-pats. It’s also famous for its wood carver artisans.

The rice fields

View from Hubud

The whole town is surrounded by rice fields but some of the most impressive terraces are to be found behind the streets at the south end of town where there is a beautiful walk you can do, starting at Jaleng Kajeng and leading to the main Ubud Road (halfway between the palace and the turning for Penastanan, taking you amid the fields and the forest.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan and Sayan Terrace

Both of these roads are lined with hotels/restaurants that have gorgeous views out across the valley and Tjampuhan River. You’d never know it from looking at the roadside, so be sure to visit one of the restaurants and see the view form the other side.

Marigold offering with pink flowers

Where to stay in Ubud

One of the nicest ways to experience Ubud is by staying in one of the town’s many homestays. Balinese people tend to live in family compunds and many have transformed part of theirs into a guesthouse. They tend to be cheap, clean, friendly places where you get to sample a slice of the wonderful Balinese hospitality. We stayed at Suparsa’s, which was run by a lovely family who made us feel very welcome.

Other options include staying in on one of the retreats, such as Arya Wellness Retreat (one of the best hostels in Bali), renting one of the many villas that surround the town, or even splashing out on one of the luxury spas and hotels.

There’s certainly no shortage of accommodation. We found our long-term villa simply by wandering around Penastanan and asking around.

Things to do in Ubud

Massage / Spas

One of our favourite luxuries in Ubud was a weekly visit to the spa. There are plenty to choose from, ranging from dirt cheap (and not so good quality) to uber-luxury. We opted for the mid-range, with our favourite being Sang Spa 2, which offers a dose of luxury at reasonable prices (around $25 for a two-hour massage, scrub and bath). Kayma Spa was another favourite.

If a massage is all you’re after and you’re not bothered about all the extra touches then Golden Hands is a fantastic no-frills option in a tiny shop on Jalen Kajeng. The husband-wife team offer what we considered to be the best massages in town.

Blanco Museum

Antonio Blanco, a Spanish/American artist, often reffered to as the Dali of Bali, lived in Penastanan from the 1950s until his death in 1999. His estate includes the Blanco Renaissance Museum, which offers a fascinating look at his surrealist art. Look out for nighttime events as the grounds are spectacular place to party.


Ubud is a yoga capital, attracting teachers and retreat goers from all around the world. The biggest and most popular centre is the Yoga Barn, which offers a full schedule of different styles from morning until night. Radiantly Alive, Taksu and Intuitive Flow are also popular.

Alternative Health

There is no end of therapies to try in Ubud, from acupuncture to crystal healing to family constellation therapy. The best way to find things is to take a look at one of the many noticeboards in town. The best ones are outside Bali Budda and Atman. You can read a few reviews via my Don’t Knock it til you’ve tried It series. Or see this post for more unusual things to do in Bali.


Ubud is well known in Bali for staging some of the island’s most elaborate ceremonies, the king of which is the cremation. Although it sounds like it would be a private affair, the entire village, tourists included, are invited.

Water Temple

Water plays a central part in Balinese spiritual life and people travel from all over the island to visit Tampak Siring, one of Bali’s biggest water temples. The centerpiece of the temple complex is a series of fountains where you can be cleansed. There are guides on hand to run you through the ritual. Although the temple is popular with tourists, the number of Balinese people far outweigh the foreigners. It’s about 45 mins from Ubud.

Bike ride

One of the most popular day trips from Ubud is to drive up to the top of Mount xx in the morning and then ride bikes all the way (downhill) back into town, passing through some small villages and coffee plantations along the way.  We’ve nevr got round to it but friends talked about it highly.


We were in Bali for the Ubud Readers and Writers Festival in October, which transformed the hippy town into a playground for the literati. It was one of my favourite weeks in town. The Bali Spirit festival is also meant to be great, celebrating all things mind, body and soul.

Explore nature

Ubud is a natural wonderland and perfect for walks through the ride paddies and forest. Also check out these Ubud waterfalls.


If you need to do some work while in town, then make sure to check out the awesome Hubud co-working space, which is more like a tree house than an office. They hold lots of networking and knowledge-sharing events and it’s a great place to get to know the town’s ex-pats.

Food at Kafe Ubud

Cafes and Restaurants in Ubud

There are so many cafes and restaurants in Ubud that it really deserves a page all of its own. Here are our favourite vegetarian restaurants and cafes in Ubud.

Bars / Nightlife

Ubud is not a party town, leaning more towards Kirtan rather than clubbing, and there’s a noise curfew of around 10:30pm. That said, there are a few popular nightspots.

Betel Nut

Betel Nut is the best place to see live music in town (try to catch a Nick Walawiki concert if you can). It also hosts the monthly Pecha Kucka night where people talk for around 6 minutes about something they are passionate about. Because Ubud is

Yoga Barn

The Yoga Barn hosts a weekly program of regular events including kirtan and ecstatic dance. The bi-monthly Monday movie nights are very popular, and our favourite was Sound Medicine on a Wednesday where you’re taken on a sensory journey through sound and smell.

Bar Luna

Bar Luna, partner of restaurant Casa Luna, is a popular bar with artists, especially writers in Ubud. It holds literary evenings as well as regular music nights in the bar that spills onto the street.

Jazz Café and XL Shisha

We never actually made it to either of these bars but we hear they are the places to go for late-night revelry and dancing.

Rice fields in Penastanan

Things to be aware of in Ubud

Monkey Forest

This is a little controversial as some people love the monkey forest. I thought I would too until one day we were held hostage by monkeys in our own home! Aside from that unfortunate encounter, I still recommend avoiding the monkeys in Ubud.

They have a few serious illnesses (including rabies and B virus) that can pass to humans if they break your skin.

The Monkey Forest is teeming with tourists, many of whom feed bananas to the monkeys or, worse, tease them. I know a few people who were bitten/scratched. Steve and I grew to see the monkeys as the little thugs of the town. Whatever you do, don’t make eye contact!

Us on Scoopy

How to get around Ubud

The most efficient way to get around Ubud is to hire a motorbike. You can also walk to most places but you’ll find cheaper and quieter accommodation outside the main town in which case you’d need a scooter. Be aware that although the main streets in Ubud operate a one-way system not everyone obeys it. That said, if a policeman catches you, you will be fined.

15 thoughts on “Ubud Essentials”

  1. Thats real good trips. Very pleasant to read your posts. You describe very well Ubud. This place is another location for those who do not like beach tourism. Ubud gives the feel of the countryside and natural. Its purpose for serenity and peace. You want to do yoga? Ubud one right location. Many major accommodation for this activity in Ubud Bali. nice share.

  2. nice post. very interesting to know what to do if traveling to somewhere. especially Ubud Bali. sometimes I do not have such plans. especially concerning hotel accommodation and restaurants. and this is an excellent guide. thanks for the post.

  3. Hi,
    I am thinking of travel around Bali include Ubud… do you know where can I get a english speaking good driver with van to bring us around Bali and Ubud for sightseeing

    • You will have no trouble finding a driver in Bali. I’m afraid I don’t have a specific recommendation as his number has changed. I would recommend asking around once you get to Bali and negotiating a price there. You’ll get a better deal that way, plus you can meet the driver first.

  4. Great report on a unique city on Bali!
    We just came back from Indonesia and also stopped in Ubud for some nights. Today, Ubud is in nearly every single tourist guide and is far from a secret spot. We loved your description of local healers and Western alterative health practitioners of every kind. In a way this is the spirit of Ubud – a mixture of alternative and creative people from all over the world. If you leave the touristic path – you will find an outstanding city with a great lifestyle. No other city on Bali is like Ubud. We also wrote a report on Ubud. Maybe you would like to have a look at it 🙂


  5. How much should I expect to pay for produce in Ubud>? The real prices not tourist inflated prices? Would love a list to check when I do my shopping tomorrow x

  6. Ubud is gorgeous! I am sure you must have thoroughly enjoyed your time there, just like I did. Was there in April 2017 and cant even wait to return. I wrote a piece about it too, let me know what you think of it it 10 reasons to fall in love with Ubud


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