Valletta essentials

Valletta is a city that’s waking up and re-donning its glad rags after a period of hibernation. Hoards of the population left after the war and much of the city sat unused for years, fading into disrepair.

Nowadays that’s changing. The grand palazzos and colourful balconies are being restored to their finest and young artists are flocking to the capital to re-claim its bohemian potential.

In 2018, it held the crown of European Capital of Culture, which urther fuelled the energy that’s being put into the artistry of the UNESCO city. It’s an exiting place to be and I definitely recommend it for a city break. Here are some tips to get you started. 

Valletta Orientation

Valletta sits on the coast of Malta and is surrounded by impressive walls up to 47 meters tall. It overlooks Grand Harbour on one side and Marsamxett Harbour on the other so you often have a sea view. The most touristy areas are around the Cathedral but everyday life is found in the masses of narrow back streets. It’s small and simple to walk but also very hilly.

Outside the city walls are smaller towns that back onto Valletta and create a bigger sprawl. Off these, the modern and lively Sliema and St.Julian’s are the main hotbeds for tourists, while the three cities (Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua) offer quiet, historical centres and a welcome respite from the crowds. 

Things to do in Valletta

Look up at the incredible architecture

As you wander the street of Valletta, be sure to look up. Some of the best architectural features ­– the balconies, the statues, the details ­– are high up on the buildings.

Visit St.John’s Co-Cathedral

I don’t always visit the major sites of a city, but the incredibly ornate St John’s Co-Cathedral is definitely worth a look not least for the two Caravaggio paintings it holds inside. Valletta was built by the Order of the Knights of St.John and this cathedral is a prime example of how rich and lavish they were.

Enjoy the gardens

There are few home gardens in Valletta as the knights wanted to conserve the island’s water but they did concede to some beautiful public gardens – the Lower and Upper Barrakka Gardens and the Hastings Gardens. All offer panoramic views of the bay. The Hastings Gardens are particularly quiet and appear to be a favourite spot for canoodling young couples.

Stroll the city

The best way to discover Valletta is to simply stroll the city and see what you find – from the small art shops hidden in back streets to the galleries and museums of the open squares. It’s small enough for you to be able to take your time and let it unfold for yourself.

Explore beyond Valletta

You can get from one side of Malta to the other in little more than 30 minutes so it’s worth venturing beyond the city. You could take a day trip to Gozo, visit historic and walled Mdina, explore the country’s farms, relax at one of the beaches, or get away from it all on the Dingli cliffs. The Blue Lagoon is a gorgeous place to visit and one of the most beautiful white sand beaches in Europe (although the beach itself is minimal and is more about the water).

Malta is also home to some of the world’s best dive sites with visibility of up to 30 meters. I’d definitely like to try that some day. Here’s a useful 3-day Malta itinerary.

Restaurants and Cafes in Valletta

La Mere

This colourful restaurant made me smile with its declaration that “we specialise in Indian, Arabic, Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine”. Despite the varied palette, the food is good and has plenty of vegetarian options.

Ambrosia

This is a cosy, atmospheric restaurant where you can sample some of Malta’s finest dishes. The charming owner will make you feel looked after and the food is cokked with fresh, local produce.

Soul Food

This restaurant / cafe is about as close to hipster as Valletta gets. Featuring a menu of piadina wraps (an Italian street food speciality) filled with a anything from vegan burgers to bananas and chocolate, it’s a perfect lunchtime spot. It also serves delicious Italian hot chocolate and a selection of juices.

Jubilee Cafe

This is one of a Maltese brand of art nouveau-style cafes that are well known for their pastizzi (pastries filled with cheese or peas).

Plaza cafes

There are also lots of cafes in the town’s various squares. None particularly stood out but all are good for people watching and enjoying the grand surroundings.

Bars / Nightlife in Valletta

Gugar

This quirky bar calls itself a hangout and attracts a young bohemian crowd who gather to enjoy the vegan food while relaxing on recycled furniture. The emphasis is on being social with games on offer and friendly reminders to enjoy each other’s company rather than your phone.

Django Jazz Bar

Catch some live jazz at this intimate bar with good cocktails and a friendly atmosphere.

Where to stay in Valletta

While in Valletta, I stayed in a beautifully restored palazzo on St.Paul’s Street. Palazzo Prince d’Orange used to a merchant’s house and has now been transformed into a boutique hotel with four suites and a penthouse with panoramic views across the harbor.

Achieving a stylish mix of old and new, it’s the perfect place to stay for a dash of luxury on your stay to the city. For cheaper options, I would recommend having a look at Airbnb. Also see this guide to where to stay in Malta.

Digital Nomad tips for Valletta

Most of Valletta’s cafés and bars offer free wi-fi at good speeds.

How to get around Valletta

Valletta is so small you need only get around on foot. There is also a lift that can take you from the harbourside up to the Barrakka Gardens if all the hills get a little too much.  To reach the surrounding areas, you can take taxis, boats or use the local bus system.

Things to be aware of in Valletta

There is no denying that Malta is a magnet for tourists. Cruise ships arrive almost daily and spill onto the streets of Valletta. Coupled with the workers who arrive from elsewhere on the island, the crowds can be quite overwhelming.

Come nightfall, everything is much quieter and Valletta has space to breathe and reveal its beauty. I recommend finding spots of respite in the gardens or your hotel. It can also be nice to get out of the city for day trips to some of the places mentioned above.

A story of Valletta

Here’s a little vignette of the city to give you a taste of what to expect…

Once upon a time there was a sleeping city.

It had been built by knights with a penchant for gold.

They said: “This is a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen,” and made it the capital of their island home.

Folk flocked to the city and embellished its buildings with elegant grandeur,

… wooden balconies and sculptural motifs.

It thrived and people felt safe enclosed by its vast bastion walls.

But then came World War II and havoc spread across the island. The city wasn’t spared and bombs came falling upon it.

In those post-war years, the city’s residents began to dwindle, allured by modern housing and foreign shores.

The city began to sleep.

Shops were abandoned,

… houses left to dust, and the population shrunk to 9,000.

In hibernation, the city became a museum, visited daily by gawkers in their thousands, capturing a glimpse of times gone by. By night, it only whispered.

But then one day, it started to wake.

Young artists and architects with an eye for style became enamoured by the city’s looks.

They started to move there, and breathe life into its sleeping streets, opening quirky cafes,

… and design studios.

Others began to follow and old residents chose to return.

Merchants’ houses became boutique hotels, and chocolate shops reopened after 20 years.

Like a magic wand across the streets, the city was waking up.

The city is waking up.

Welcome to Valletta. Her time has come again.