Alaya at Sol y Luna Coroico

Most amazing places we’ve ever stayed

I’m a complete geek when it comes to finding good places to stay. Cosy, handmade, individual, homely, bohemian and eco-friendly are all words that grab my attention. Add to that a view, a hot tub, privacy, and a good price and I’m definitely sold. People are always asking me for recommendations and tips on how … Read more

Garganta del Diablo, Quebrada de Cafayate

The colours and shapes of the Quebrada de Cafayate

I have a confession. When I went to the Grand Canyon on the tail end of my gap year, aged 19, I was such a brat that on the way there, I moodily declared: “So what, it’s just a big hole”. Cringe. This was mainly to annoy the very keen group of German girls on … Read more

Barcelona with a baby- Hotel Barcelona Catedral

Cafayate wine: a charming alternative to Mendoza

After a slightly treacherous but splendid time in Mendoza, we were intrigued to hear about Cafayate – a smaller wine region in Argentina, most famous for its Torrontes white wine. As a bigger fan of white than red, this peaked my interest even further and we decided to take a look. What greeted us was … Read more

Teens from Barrio Solidaridad in Salta

The selfishness of teens: volunteering with Cloudhead in Salta

Teenagers are obnoxious, right? Rude, selfish, little creatures that think they know everything better than everyone. This is what the British right-wing papers would certainly have you believe. While I can’t vouch for UK teenagers (although they seem pretty harmless on the whole to me), I can say that the Argentinian teenagers we met blew … Read more

Pena at the Casona del Molino 1

Video: Folklorico at La Casona del Molino, Salta

Salta is famous for its peñas, venues where musicians come together to play traditional folk music. Most of these have been turned into touristy nightmares with an organised sit-down dinner and staged show. We avoided these but were luckily told about one that retains its authenticity – La Casona del Molino. The casona is a … Read more

Victoria horseriding in Capilla del Monte

On facing fears

I was in a tunnel 15 feet under the ground, only just big enough to crouch and crawl through. The lights had blown a few moments earlier, just in time to see a bat skim the crown of my head. I peered through the darkness, uneasiness setting in as the earthen walls crumbled beneath my … Read more

Alien shop in Capilla del Monte

Hunting for UFOs in Capilla del Monte, Argentina

Prayer to Pachamama in Capilla del Monte

“I can’t wait to get back to the mountains” I said, as we trundled down a hill in Cordoba city on the way to a new hostel. Steve agreed. We’d been in the city for a few days and liked it – there were next to no tourists and it had a spritely bustle that had been a novelty after weeks in Patagonia – but the yearning for nature had soon kicked in. As our words registered, we leapt to the same conclusion: “What are we doing then? Let’s go,” and we hailed a taxi to the bus station.

Our chosen destination was Capilla del Monte, a small town about three hours outside of Cordoba, which our couchsurfing host had told us about. It’s famed for UFO sightings and has an abundance of vegetarian food – enough to sate both Steve’s and my curiosity.

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Wax Freud

Why are so many Argentines in therapy?

I started to notice it in Buenos Aires. Friends would meet me a drink “after therapy”, my Spanish teacher would fit me in around her sessions, and everyone would pepper conversations with “my therapist says…”. I soon realised that nearly every Argentine I met was either in, or had been in, therapy – but more … Read more